Fall Garlic

Culture: Garlic is easy to grow and bothered by few pests, making it a reliable addition to any

garden. To get large, firm, and high-quality bulbs that also store well, it is important to start with

rich, healthy soil.

When preparing to plant, separate the cloves of garlic just before planting and choose the largest

cloves for the best harvest. Plant regular garlic cloves 4–6 inches apart and cover with 1–2

inches of soil. Elephant garlic should be planted 6–8 inches apart and covered with 4–6 inches

of soil. For Midwest gardens, the best planting window is between October 1 – 15, so plants have

enough time to establish strong roots before winter sets in. Garlic is very winter hardy, but mulch

heavily to protect against soil heaving in freeze–thaw cycles. Roots will form before winter, with

little or no top growth visible.

During the growing season, remove any flower scapes that appear at the top of the plant so that

energy goes directly into bulb development.

Fertilization: Fertilizing garlic at the right time is essential for ensuring strong growth and large

bulb development. Different growth stages require different nutrients to support the plant’s

changing needs.

Planting (Fall): Incorporate compost or manure into the soil before planting cloves. This adds

organic matter and nutrients to help establish strong roots. A phosphorus-rich fertilizer, such

as Bone Meal (4-5 pounds per 100 square feet) or Liquid Fish (Liquid Fish-2 ounces per gallon),

further supports early root development.

Early Spring (Emerging Shoots): As garlic shoots begin to emerge, applying a nitrogen-rich

fertilizer like Fish Emulsion (Liquid Fish – 2 ounces per gallon), Alfalfa Meal (2-5 pounds per 100

square feet), or Blood Meal (2 pounds per 100 square feet) encourages vegetative growth. Side-

dressing with compost or worm castings provides a slow-release nutrient boost that keeps the

plants strong.

Mid-Spring (Rapid Growth Phase): Garlic requires consistent nitrogen applications every three to

four weeks during its active growth period. Something like Blood Meal (2 pounds per 100 square

feet) or Cottonseed Meal (3-5 pounds per 100 square feet) would be helpful during this stage of

growth to offer slow-release nitrogen.

Bulb Formation Stage (Late Spring to Early Summer): As bulbs begin to form, it’s important

to reduce nitrogen application to prevent excessive leaf growth. Instead, shift the focus to

phosphorus and potassium sources, such as Bone Meal (4-5 pounds per 100 square feet), which

helps promote bulb enlargement.

Why Does Garlic Have Yellow Tips?: If you are noticing your garlic revealing a yellow tip, it is

likely because of a lack of nitrogen, molybdenum, or water or a combination of the three. Use Soil

Balance 8-6-8 (side dress 4” from plants at 10 pounds per 150 foot row) and Potassium Sulfate

(1/2 – 3/4 pound per 100 square feet) at this stage through irrigation to prevent/alleviate this.

Pre-Harvest (Final Weeks Before Harvest): Fertilization should stop about two to three weeks

before harvesting. This allows the garlic bulbs to mature properly and develop their characteristic

size and flavor.

Harvest and Storage: Garlic is ready to harvest when 3–4 green leaves remain on the stem,

typically around July 4th in many regions. Lift the bulbs carefully, then tie the plants in small

bundles to cure for two or more weeks in a cool, shaded, and well-ventilated location. Once fully

cured, trim the stems to within 1 inch of the bulb and remove excess roots. Store garlic as you

would onions—in mesh bags or another breathable container.