Spring Onions, Shallots & Garlic

Onion Plants

While the enclosed plants may appear dry, don’t be alarmed; they’re simply dormant. Don’t worry if

you can’t plant them immediately, even if the roots and tips begin to dry out. The onions can live off

the bulb for approximately three weeks. Keep them in a well-ventilated, cool area until you can plant

them. Do not put them in soil or water. You may need to open the bunch and spread out the plants

for ventilation.

Onion Sets

If sets arrive before weather conditions are favorable, spread them out in a cool, dry place until you

are ready to plant. You may choose to keep some of these in the fridge and plant at intervals to

extend the season of small green onions for fresh eating.

Soil Preparation: Onions require full sun and good soil drainage. Choose a location that gets plenty

of direct sun. Onions grow best on raised beds or raised rows at least 4″ high and 20″ wide. Add

well-rotted manure or compost when preparing your soil. The soil should be loose and crumbly. If

it’s compacted, work in organic matter to improve aeration and drainage.

To stop weeds for up to six weeks, rake a pre-emergent herbicide, such as Treflan into the top inch

of soil before you plant. Don’t worry, the herbicide will not affect the onion plant roots.

Planting: Plant your onions 3 to 4 weeks before the last estimated spring freeze. For the best

growth and yield, onions need fertilizer right from the start. Use a fertilizer such as Soil Balance –

HyrBrix Veg. or 3-4-3 Organic. (See note in fertilizing section)

Plant the onions 1/2” to 3/4″ deep and no deeper, or this will inhibit their ability to bulb. If you want

the onions to grow to maturity, space them 4-5″ apart. If you prefer to harvest some earlier as green

onions, space them 2″ apart and pull every other onion during the growing season, leaving the rest

to grow to maturity. For fresh eating onions with more edible white stem, plant up to 3 “ deep. To

save space, plant a wide row (up to 30”) rather than one long one.

Growing: The better care your onions receive during the growing season, the more likely you’ll have

a bountiful harvest.

Watering: Water thoroughly after planting, and regularly thereafter. Onions have shallow roots,

so don’t let the soil at the base of the plants become dry and cracked. Overwatering is equally

problematic. If leaves develop a yellow tinge, cut back on watering. The closer to harvest time, the

greater the need for water. However, when the onion tops start falling over, stop watering and let the

soil dry out before harvesting.

Fertilizing: Compost or blood meal are good organic soil amendments where onions will be

planted. Onions respond well to nitrogen applications. Calcium Nitrate is a good side-dress fertilizer

for sweet onions. Ammonium Sulphate is better for storage onions. Apply 4” away from row and

2” deep. Do not add water or fertilizer after plant tops start to yellow. Water the onions after every

application. Monty’s Yellow Label or Liquid Fish are also good choices. Stop fertilizing when the

onions start to bulb. (See Bulbing below.)

Weeding: Controlling weeds is critical to prevent competition for nutrients. Onions do not do well

with weed competition. An application of Treflan or Preen Veg. raked into the top inch of soil every

six weeks during the growing season will prevent weeds from returning. Mulching with a light layer

of straw will help control weeds and preserve moisture. Be sure to push the straw back when the

plants start to bulb so they’ll cure properly.Bulbing: When the ground starts to crack as the onions push the soil away, the bulbing process has

begun. Stop fertilizing at this point.

Harvesting: When the tops of the onions turn brown or yellow and fall over, it’s almost time to harvest.

At this point, bend over the remaining tops of the plants. Ideally, the plant will have about 13 leaves at

this point. Pull the onions early in the morning on a sunny day. Dry the onions in the sun for two days. To

prevent sunscald, lay the tops of one row over the bulbs of another.

Curing: How long your onions will keep depends on how you treat them after harvest. They must be

dried thoroughly to avoid problems with rot. If left outside when the weather is dry, this will take two or

three days. The entire neck (where the leaves meet the bulb) should be dry, all the way to the surface of

the onion, and shouldn’t “slide” when you pinch it. The skin will take on a uniform texture and color. If

rain is expected, you’ll need to dry your onions indoors. Spread them out in a well-ventilated area with

room to breathe. Drying indoors may take longer than outdoors. When tops and papery skin on the bulbs

are dry and crinkly, clip tops 1” from the bulb, trim roots, and store them in onion bags, (mesh bags with

holes). Now they are ready to eat.

Storing: Store onions in a cool, dry, well-ventilated location, such as a garage or cellar. Place them in

mesh bags or netting to permit airflow. Periodically check for any soft onions, and remove them to avoid

deterioration of the others. Do not store onions near to apples or tomatoes or they will sprout sooner. As

a general rule, sweeter onions don’t store as long as more pungent ones, so use the sweeter onions first.

Spring Garlic

Garlic planted in spring will likely not be as large as garlic planted in the fall. This is because garlic

needs to go through a process called vernalization in order to form bulbs. Vernalization is a period

of cold weather that triggers the garlic to start growing. If garlic is planted in the spring, it may not

have enough time to go through vernalization and will therefore produce smaller bulbs. Keeping

bulbs in the fridge a few weeks or planting early March can help with bulb size. The garlic may not

be as flavorful. Garlic that is planted in the fall has more time to develop full flavor than that which

is planted in the spring.

Harvesting Green Garlic: Green garlic is another reason why some gardeners grow spring garlic.

Harvested around June, it adds a welcome just-dug freshness to our kitchen and can be used for

sautéing and pickling. Green garlic is a young garlic plant that is harvested before the bulbs have a

chance to fully develop. It has a mild, garlicky flavor that is perfect for adding a touch of flavor to dishes

without being overpowering. Green garlic is best harvested when the leaves are about 6-8 inches long

and the bulbs are about the size of a golf ball. To harvest, simply dig up the plant with a garden fork or

shovel. Green garlic can be used in a variety of ways, both raw and cooked.

Shallots

Growing: Shallots are a “gourmet onion” with hints of garlic that grows best in full sun and fertile,

well-drained soils. Incorporate organic matter and a complete fertilizer into the soil before planting.

Plant a bulb set in early spring as soon as the ground can be worked. Bulbs should be planted 1–2

inches deep and 3–6 inches apart. High density planting results in smaller, single bulbs, while wide

spacing results in bulb clusters. Each set will form a new cluster of shallots. The crop will take 3-4

months to mature. To harvest shallots as green onions, keep the spacing close together. Shallots

should be regularly watered to ensure proper growth. Mulching can help to conserve water, reduce

weeds, and provide extra nutrients.

Harvesting: Shallots should be harvested similar to onions. Shallot tops can be harvested throughout

the year to thin out plants when their tops are 6–8 inches tall, or roughly 50–60 days after planting.

For dry bulbs, harvest after the tops of plants fall over. Lift the bulbs and gently separate the clusters

into individual bulbs. Leave in a warm dry place to cure for 1–2 weeks. The bulbs and leaves should

be completely dry and the skin should be papery after curing. Either braid tops together or cut leaves

2 inches above the bulb before storing. Store in mesh bags in a cool, dry environment. Properly stored

shallot bulbs can be replanted in the spring.